Mazda Etude 1.8 Engine
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PLEASE NOTE: By enquiring, you agree to both the Vendor’s and Engine Finder’s terms & conditions. (E&OE)
Mazda Etude 1.8 Engine For Sale
Your engine / part enquiry will be sent to a wide network of engine importers, scrap yards, re-manufacturers, and car salvage yards. They will promptly respond to you.
- Save your time! Get in touch with a large number of scrap yards and motor importers quickly.
- Receive multiple quotes! Several companies will contact you with their prices.
- Buy used engines directly from the seller! There are no middlemen fees involved.
Phone: 087 135 2226 (Monday – Friday).
Mazda Etude 1.8 Engine Specs
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Fuel Type | Petrol |
| Displacement | 1.8 L |
| Valvetrain | DOHC |
| No. of valves | 16 |
| Power Output in KW | 92 KW |
| Torque Output | 165 Nm |
| Bore x Stroke | 83 mm x 85 mm |
| Compression Ratio | 9.2:1 |
Mazda Etude 1.8 Engine FAQ
4 Things To Check When Buying A used engine
When buying a used car engine you obviously want to be as sure as possible that it?s worth the money you?re spending, and will run without any problems. Unfortunately there are some things that might go wrong with a second hand engine, even if it seems like it is in good working order. Here are four things to look out for when purchasing a used car engine:
1. Borescope Inspection Camera
Most engines will have at least one cylinder that isn?t producing enough compression due to carbon buildup. An engine with excessive carbon buildup can run very roughly, and cause harm to other engine components.
To inspect the cylinders for this, use a borescope inspection camera with magnification capabilities installed on your cell-phone or tablet. You can buy these power tools online or from Foschini Group stores, ranging in price from R700 upwards, depending on the quality of the product you purchase.
2. Compression Test
Compression tests are an easy way to determine how well an engine is functioning without having to take it apart completely. This test is done by placing the car up onto ramps or jacks (if it is a manual), or use the hand break to keep it stationary. Once this is done, take out the spark plugs one by one and put the end of a long piece of rubber tubing onto each spark plug hole except for one. This will prevent oil from leaking all over your engine bay, should there be any damage to an oil seal or gasket.
Now put on your goggles and gloves, as you?ll want protect your face should there be any parts falling off when you remove the valve cover. Put some kind of loose fitting cover over the open cylinder head so that nothing falls in there while you are not looking. Now slowly rotate the crankshaft until both valves are closed on that cylinder (you'll have to keep an eye on the valve timing marks to identify this).
Next, take a small screwdriver and insert it into each spark plug hole. If your rubber tubing is in place and air tight, you will very quickly feel resistance as the piston slams into it with force. The amount of resistance you feel indicates how much compression is in that cylinder - if there's no resistance at all, then either something is terribly wrong with your engine or there is no compression in that cylinder.
Compression tests should be done before every used car purchase so as not to get ripped off by shady sellers who claim their engines are fine when they aren?t.
3. Coolant Check - Inspect cooling passages. Cast iron blocks are especially prone to rust and corrosion. Ensure there isn?t any orange corrosion
Engine coolant is a mixture of distilled water, antifreeze and glycol and usually comes in the form blue-green liquid which you need to add through a cap on most cars. It contains chemicals that keep your engine from freezing up in cold temperatures, and helps prevent the car from overheating in hot conditions by carrying heat away from the hottest running parts.
Just like with oil changes, it is important that you check your engine?s coolant levels regularly to ensure that it doesn't run out before you are able to get it changed professionally. Using a borescope inspection camera will allow you to inspect your passages for any signs of corrosion, which usually presents itself in the form of orange rust. If this is found, you should not purchase that car.
4. Basic Engine Inspection - make sure there are no signs of a cracked block or impact damage
The last thing to inspect when purchasing a used car engine is your basic engine inspection. This will allow you to see if any components have been damaged or worn out and need replacing before the new owner drives the vehicle off the lot. It?s definitely worth paying some more attention than usual at this point, as it will save you lots of time and money in the future:
- Check for leaking oil?
- Make sure there aren't any large cracks or holes in any of your plastic components
- Look into the oil pan, which is usually located on the bottom of your car and can be checked from underneath. Ensure there isn?t any sludge in it
- Take off all of your engine covers or plastic caps that are not bolted down to take a look inside. If all goes well, you should see clean metal surfaces with no leakage of oil or other fluids
Conclusion
Please note the above information acts as guide only and you should always check everything with a qualified mechanic.
When buying a used car engine you obviously want to be as sure as possible that it?s worth the money you?re spending, and will run without any problems. Unfortunately there are some things that might go wrong with a second hand engine, even if it seems like it is in good working order. Here are four things to look out for when purchasing a used car engine:
1. Borescope Inspection Camera
Most engines will have at least one cylinder that isn?t producing enough compression due to carbon buildup. An engine with excessive carbon buildup can run very roughly, and cause harm to other engine components.
To inspect the cylinders for this, use a borescope inspection camera with magnification capabilities installed on your cell-phone or tablet. You can buy these power tools online or from Foschini Group stores, ranging in price from R700 upwards, depending on the quality of the product you purchase.
2. Compression Test
Compression tests are an easy way to determine how well an engine is functioning without having to take it apart completely. This test is done by placing the car up onto ramps or jacks (if it is a manual), or use the hand break to keep it stationary. Once this is done, take out the spark plugs one by one and put the end of a long piece of rubber tubing onto each spark plug hole except for one. This will prevent oil from leaking all over your engine bay, should there be any damage to an oil seal or gasket.
Now put on your goggles and gloves, as you?ll want protect your face should there be any parts falling off when you remove the valve cover. Put some kind of loose fitting cover over the open cylinder head so that nothing falls in there while you are not looking. Now slowly rotate the crankshaft until both valves are closed on that cylinder (you'll have to keep an eye on the valve timing marks to identify this).
Next, take a small screwdriver and insert it into each spark plug hole. If your rubber tubing is in place and air tight, you will very quickly feel resistance as the piston slams into it with force. The amount of resistance you feel indicates how much compression is in that cylinder - if there's no resistance at all, then either something is terribly wrong with your engine or there is no compression in that cylinder.
Compression tests should be done before every used car purchase so as not to get ripped off by shady sellers who claim their engines are fine when they aren?t.
3. Coolant Check - Inspect cooling passages. Cast iron blocks are especially prone to rust and corrosion. Ensure there isn?t any orange corrosion
Engine coolant is a mixture of distilled water, antifreeze and glycol and usually comes in the form blue-green liquid which you need to add through a cap on most cars. It contains chemicals that keep your engine from freezing up in cold temperatures, and helps prevent the car from overheating in hot conditions by carrying heat away from the hottest running parts.
Just like with oil changes, it is important that you check your engine?s coolant levels regularly to ensure that it doesn't run out before you are able to get it changed professionally. Using a borescope inspection camera will allow you to inspect your passages for any signs of corrosion, which usually presents itself in the form of orange rust. If this is found, you should not purchase that car.
4. Basic Engine Inspection - make sure there are no signs of a cracked block or impact damage
The last thing to inspect when purchasing a used car engine is your basic engine inspection. This will allow you to see if any components have been damaged or worn out and need replacing before the new owner drives the vehicle off the lot. It?s definitely worth paying some more attention than usual at this point, as it will save you lots of time and money in the future:
- Check for leaking oil?
- Make sure there aren't any large cracks or holes in any of your plastic components
- Look into the oil pan, which is usually located on the bottom of your car and can be checked from underneath. Ensure there isn?t any sludge in it
- Take off all of your engine covers or plastic caps that are not bolted down to take a look inside. If all goes well, you should see clean metal surfaces with no leakage of oil or other fluids
Conclusion
Please note the above information acts as guide only and you should always check everything with a qualified mechanic.
(E&OE)
